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Anthropology Lives . . . . . jan 1 2004 — amwalk86.dat

Every year we enjoy a Chinese Dim Sum brunch in Los Angeles on the first day of the new year. Then we all go for a hike. This year I couldn't go because I have the flu, so I sent my emissaries instead.

At the breakfast table where nephew Max was eating cereal and producing a great deal of noise in the process, I shared a Chinese cultural custom, which I had gleaned from a recent reading of Finding Chinese Food in Los Angeles [ highly recommended if you're in L.A.: [buy at amazon] . by Eric Chu.

"Listen, boys," I said. "I can't go with you to dim sum because I have the flu, but here's something to look for. Look to the tables around you, and notice that when people are having tea poured for them, they tap their fingers briskly on the table. It's to say 'thank you' without saying anything."

I drummed with my fingers on the table to demonstrate how to identify this activity which I had never noticed before, even though we have been to Ocean Star on Atlantic Avenue many times.

Later that afternoon, when they returned from their tea and their walk, young Max told me he had noticed nearby diners tapping their fingers on the table during the pouring of tea.

Happy New Year, and I hope to see you all more frequently during 2004!